The tradition of the Arlésienne costume

Emblematic of the region, the Arlésienne costume embodies tradition, history and elegance. With its bright colors, shimmering fabrics and distinctive accessories, this traditional costume is much more than just clothing; it reflects a profound cultural identity. Extremely codified, the gardian and Arlésienne costume charters set the rules. The codes, the canon, disseminated by groups or influential people in the community, are a guarantee of respect for the costume.

History & origins

The tradition of the Arlésienne costume dates back to the 17th century, when the city of Arles prospered thanks to its trade and strategic position as a cultural crossroads. Inspired by the clothing fashions of the time, the Arlésienne costume began to emerge, incorporating characteristics specific to the region.

Traditionally, the Arlesienne costume was worn on Sundays and holidays. Today, the Fête du Costume (1st Sunday in July) and the election of the Reine d’Arles (in May every 3 years) are a highlight for the Arlésienne costume.

A costume that changes with life

The art of costume follows women through all the stages of their lives: little girl, young girl, wife, mother, grandmother, etc. The passages from one stage to another are marked formally or informally.

The Mireieto ceremony, for example, marks the transition from the bonnet to the Mireille headdress (or tie-dress) for little girls aged 7-8. Later, at the Festo Vierginenco, a ceremony instituted under the patronage of Frederic Mistral in 1903, young girls pledged to pass on the costume to their daughters. This rite of passage marked the entry into adulthood.

Today, every summer in Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, the teenagers take the ribbon as confirmation of their commitment to maintaining Provencal traditions.

The main features of the costume

The dress

It is the centerpiece of the costume. Long and pinched at the waist, it’s made of colorful satin. Traditionally, the dress is in shades of red, blue or green, but other bright colors can also be used.

The “chapel”

Called a “chapelle” or “cache coeur”, it’s a trapezoid-shaped lace breastplate that covers the chest. Its name refers to the garment worn by the Virgin Mary.

The shawl

Matching the dress, it is square-shaped and covers the shoulders while molding the bust.

The headpiece

Very recognizable, it requires long hair and a great deal of preparation time and care to meet the demands of its canons. Placed on top of the head, it consists of a ribbon, tie and lace bow.

Jewelry

Clasps, rings, buckles, hooks, pendants… there’s a whole range of jewellery to choose from, handed down from generation to generation. You’ll find filigree gold, solid gold, silver, precious and semi-precious stones. In terms of motif, the Provencal cross is the most common. As with the rest of the costume, the wearing of jewelry is highly codified according to time of year, activity, age and social status. Earrings, for example, are reserved for married women.

The costume today

Although the Arlésienne costume is rooted in tradition, it continues to evolve with the times. Local artisans sometimes adapt designs to suit contemporary tastes, while preserving the essence and authenticity of the outfit. In addition, educational and cultural initiatives ensure that the art of making and wearing the costume is passed on to future generations, ensuring its longevity.

The Arlésienne costume remains a living symbol of Provençal identity, testifying to the richness and diversity of the region’s culture. Through its vibrant colors, elaborate patterns and centuries-old history, it continues to enchant and inspire, reminding locals and visitors alike of the importance of preserving and celebrating the traditions that link us to the past.

Crédit photos : @Virginie Ovessian