Considered one of the world’s textile birthplaces, India has a thousand-year-old history with the art of fabric, which has a real cultural value in the country. The various techniques have been handed down from generation to generation, and each region has its own specific weaving and printing techniques. Here’s a brief overview of these different techniques…
L’indienne
Famous cotton fabrics with floral motifs, Indiennes are used for both clothing and decoration. These fabrics owe their name to the fact that they were originally imported from the Comptoirs of India. Indeed, since ancient times, Indian craftsmen have passed on the secrets of the art of decorating cotton canvas. Long, complex and empirical, the manufacturing process for these indiennes relies on the use of mordants, metallic salts which, when applied to the fabric, have the property of fixing the dyes. This mastery of chemical processes gave rise to a palette of rich, brilliant colors, dominated by madder reds and indigo blues. Following a ban on their importation into France, several cities began producing them themselves. These include Marseille, Nantes and, of course, Nîmes.
Batik
The principle of batik is to draw on the fabric the final pattern to be reproduced, protect areas of the fabric from staining by applying hot wax, and apply colors by dipping in dye baths. The process is repeated for each color, from light to dark. At the end of the process, the wax is removed, either with an iron or by soaking in boiling water. This technique is widespread throughout Asia.
Block Print
Block printing is a way of printing patterns on fabric using wooden blocks, very widespread in Rajasthan. The wooden blocks are carefully hand-carved by craftsmen, and are then used to print motifs on silk or cotton. Find out more about this technique
Ikat
This technique is reputed to be one of the oldest reserve-dyeing methods. Threads are tied according to a precise plan and dyed before being woven. It is during weaving that the plan (or pattern) used to position the ligatures appears. Craftsmen can spend months creating a pattern on the warp and weft threads before weaving.
Chanderi
Chanderi is a traditional ethnic fabric characterized by its light, pure texture and luxurious feel. It is produced by weaving silk interwoven with zari – a regular thread traditionally made of gold or silver – and traditional cotton yarns, giving it its shimmering texture. The fabric takes its name from the small town of Chanderi, where traditional weavers practice the art of producing saris.
Madras
Originating from Madras, it is a brightly colored Indian fabric with silk weft and cotton warp, woven with yarns dyed with natural dyes, or even banana fiber, stripes or checks. As a result of Indian immigration to the West Indies, Madras is now associated with traditional women’s dress in the West Indies and French Guiana.
Kalamkari
Kalamkari is a traditional art form from southern India. It consists of an unbleached cotton canvas, hand-painted with vegetable dyes using a Kalam, a carved bamboo with a rag serving as a reservoir. The themes evoked are generally drawn from Hindu mythology, nature (flowers, animals) and everyday life.
